Maive McKenzie
05 October 2024, 6:24 PM
Eli Fuller has had a lifelong passion for cooking. It has taken him to the best restaurants in Sydney, but he always finds himself coming back to the Northern Rivers. Eli sat down with Maive McKenzie at Invercauld House, where he is the manager, to get his life story.
I grew up in Wardell, a quiet village near the river and the beach and lived there until I was 18. Back then, it was a small place where everyone knew each other. Most of my time was spent outdoors—riding dirt bikes, fishing, and hanging around the canefields.
My mum was a school teacher, which made the importance of school instilled in us from a young age. Being a school teacher in Wardell also meant she knew pretty much everyone. Wardell was also the kind of place where families would hang out on the weekends. If someone was throwing a party, everyone was invited. It was a very small neighbourhood, but it meant we were close-knit, and it was a great place to grow up. My parents even met in a very local way too—my dad lived just down the road.
As a kid, I was all about sports. I played football six days a week—both rugby league and union—and also played basketball for school. If I wasn’t on a field or a court, I was outdoors from sunrise to sunset. It was the perfect way to grow up in that area, with no cement around and a bunch of places to roam.
I’m the youngest of three. I had two older brothers, but sadly one of them passed away in a motorbike accident about 10 years ago. My father was a builder, so my brother did an apprenticeship with him. Being the youngest, I kind of saw that hard work and learnt from that and just channelled that into a career in cooking.
When I was younger, I first thought I’d end up in real estate. My family owned a few real estate companies, so that was where my head was at for a while. I actually wanted to be a real estate agent at first. But by Year 10, I realised I had a real passion for cooking.
Back then, I’d ride my push bike all the way to Ballina to do work as an apprentice in the kitchen. Eventually, I got myself a car, and by the time I was 18, I was really starting to excel in hospitality.
At the time, the country was a bit behind when it came to quality food and produce, so most moved out to big cities, and I ended up going to Sydney. It was a big change, but it helped shape my career.
Living in Sydney was quite enjoyable. The nightlife was something Ballina just didn’t have. I loved being able to socialise and meet new people, especially since a lot of my friends went to uni down there.
I did my apprenticeship, which lasted four years. I did four years of TAFE, some in Sydney and some on the Gold Coast. Being an apprentice chef, or a chef in general, you have a great ability to travel and find a job in any location. It was quite enjoyable. I met lots of new people, lots of people that I look up to and am still in touch with. It was a fantastic, high-paced, and fun environment to be in when you’re young. But I’ll admit, as I got older, the industry started to consume my life and weekends.
But I have to say, my time at the Manta restaurant in Sydney was one of my favourites. It was a great experience cooking with live mud crabs and lobsters—definitely a hands-on way to learn.
Working in restaurants like that, you never know who might walk in. I was around some big names when I worked at the Hilton, too, where we catered for the MTV Awards, Good Charlotte, and huge bands. Even Shane Warne came in for his retirement party, along with Delta Goodrem and John Laws. You’d see all the who's who of Sydney passing through.
One thing that always made it interesting was the rule about handing our phones in; we couldn’t take photos of celebrities. It felt like being part of something exclusive and exciting, and I loved every minute of it.
Overall, I spent three years in Sydney to complete my apprenticeship, then headed back home for a bit. I worked on a dive boat in Booyong, cooking and catching sea cucumbers. I spent my days diving and cooking, living on the boat for about eight months.
The first week on the dive boat was rough—I was seasick the entire time! But after that, it turned into a pretty enjoyable experience. Everyone on the boat became like family; we slept and ate together, which really built a bond among us.
After that, once again, I always came back to the Northern Rivers because the Northern Rivers, to me, is probably the best spot to be, actually my family's base. So always, wherever I go, I always end up back here. And I've always kept good relationships with the restaurant owners that I've worked with over the years.
Around this time, I met my partner, Marine, in about 2014. We met each other at the Federal Hotel when I was working there. She's from France, so we have a bilingual household, where the kids speak a lot better French than myself. We have two languages in the household, which is good for the kids, and good for myself.
We try to get over there, if not every year, every second year, to see her family. We now have a little boy who’s eight and a little girl who’s six. We’ve got a house and kids and have been together long enough to tackle the bank loans together!
I spent six years working at La Cucina, where I got to know Danny Singh, a well-known restaurateur in Ballina and am still in contact with him today. In the restaurant industry, it’s pretty common to stay in one place for just 1-2 years before moving on to get fresh ideas and experiences.
I opened up the Sherwood when that came to town, and I was there up until the floods. Unfortunately, floods demolished that business. The people running it now, however, are lovely and they are back on their feet now, but there was a six to eight-month hiatus where there was no work.
I found then stumbled upon this place, Invercauld House, and started working there as a casual chef, helping out the head chef. Over the months, as I settled in, I became the head chef myself. Then, as time went on, I transitioned into the manager role. It was a small crawl to the top, but the journey has been really enjoyable, and I’ve loved every step of it.
What initially motivated me to get into cooking was the energy and pace of the kitchen. It’s a place where you can really be yourself, surrounded by like-minded people who share that same passion. When you’re young and full of energy, it’s easy to dive in and give it your all.
But as life goes on, especially with a home loan and kids, you find that you don’t need that extra motivation to come to work anymore. It becomes a part of your routine, and honestly, it feels great to get up every day and tackle what’s ahead.
Like everyone in the industry, I’ve faced my fair share of challenges at work. Staffing issues have always been a big hurdle, especially when the floods and COVID hit. We found ourselves short-staffed, and the hospitality landscape changed dramatically; chefs had to retrain in different areas just to keep things running.
One of the biggest challenges is the diversity of needs we see come in. It's essential to accommodate everyone and keep them happy, but each day can feel unpredictable. I try to stay present and treat everyone the same, no matter who they are. I also work with a diverse mix of people, from nurses and lawyers to community groups and parliament for inquiries, along with those involved in central emergencies for power stations.
Navigating such a varying community with so many different subjects can be tricky. It’s about finding a balance, doing business, and solving problems while making sure everyone feels valued and heard. It keeps me on my toes for sure!
Outside of work, I really enjoy camping and travelling whenever I get the chance. Cooking at home has become a favourite hobby, especially since I’m not doing it for work all the time. With two little kids, I love spending quality time with them and making sure they grow into good little humans.
We spend a lot of time skateboarding, playing basketball, and just enjoying sports together. It’s all about doing what you love and passing that passion on to the next generation. That family time is so important to me, and I cherish every moment we get to share.
Some of the biggest lessons I’ve learned throughout my career are pretty simple but impactful. First off, always take a moment to think before you act. It’s easy to get caught up in the heat of the moment, but you never know the stories or contexts of the people around you.
I’ve learned not to push my opinions too hard; instead, it’s essential to be kind and compassionate. You really need those qualities in this line of work. What goes around comes around, and I’ve seen firsthand how good friendships build strong relationships. In a small town, it’s all about looking out for the community, and that sense of support goes a long way.
One of the most rewarding moments of my career was receiving an award for the best visitor experience. It was a real testament to the hard work we put in and it was great to have that kind of recognition.
I also take pride in providing non-profit rates for community-based groups. Being able to offer accommodation for those in need has made a huge impact, and it feels great to support people financially when they need it the most. Knowing that our efforts contribute positively to the community makes all the hard work worthwhile.
Looking back at my career path, I’m most proud of getting to where I am now. I started cooking at 16, and it’s been quite a journey since then. I spent the next 22 years working in kitchens, and I had the chance to work with people like Luke Mangan and at places like Hilton and Manta. I’ve put in the hard work and learned a lot along the way, but what really stands out is that I’m still involved in hospitality without having to be behind the tills.
I love that I can still contribute and be part of this industry without sweating above the stove all day. It's a nice balance, and I appreciate the growth I’ve experienced over the years.
Looking ahead, I’m in a pretty stable spot right now. I’ve got a home loan that’s a good bit of motivation and I feel good about my job, plus I’m really happy in the Lismore community. While I don’t have any grand plans right at this moment, I’m focused on renovating my house and seeing that project through over the next five years, especially with the kids still in school.
I’m part of a larger corporation and enjoy working with the people here. There are plenty of opportunities on the horizon, and I’m looking forward to what the future holds.