“It’s absurd that social media should judge a leader’s fashion instead of their policies". Dr Denise Rall.

Whether the media focusses on a woman’s ability to govern or her fashion is something close to the heart of Southern Cross University (SCU) academic Dr Denise Rall. 

Dr Rall is the commissioning editor of a new book Fashion, Women & Power: The politics of Dress and said never before has the media focused so intensely on women in power - analysing not just their leadership style, but a woman’s right to govern and what she wears.

“It is the dilemma of women to dress to promote fashion diplomacy,” Dr Rall said. “The rise of social media is generating a sensationalist controversy. 

“It’s absurd that social media should judge a leader’s fashion instead of their policies.

“However, Julie Bishop and Jacinda Ardern are an exception to the rule, which might have something to do with the fact that they are perceived as slim and attractive.

“When Julia Gillard began as Prime Minister, the media focused on a beige trench coat she wore, which she later discarded for a more colourful alternative. But the press then labelled it ‘the technicolour scream coat’ and suggested it looked like a cheap motel bedspread.”

Fashion, Women & Power: The politics of Dress brings together contributions by academics to offer a wide set of perspectives on women and their roles in powerful positions in Australia, New Zealand, Great Britain and the United States.

“From the United States comes the troublesome media stories engulfing two significant American Democratic first ladies, Hillary Rodham Clinton and Michelle Obama,” Dr Rall said.

“Closer to home, the media- spotlight focuses on leaders including Julia Gillard, Julie Bishop and New Zealand Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern.

“There was a dress for success movement in the 1970s when women adopted the business pants suit as they climbed the corporate ladder, but it backfired.

“ Former first lady Hillary Clinton wore the wroth of the right-wing media labelling her trousers as masculine, whereas Angela Merkel as Chancellor of Germany was not criticised for her pant suits.”

The book also explores viewpoints from East Asia, such as the constricting role for a woman as ‘commoner’ when marrying into the Imperial family in Japan. ‘

The book covers the observations from 10 different contributors and takes the reader on a revealing journey down the catwalk of political fashion over the years.  

 The COVID pandemic has delayed the publication of Fashion, Women & Power: The politics of Dress, it’s expected to be released in early 2021.

Associate Professor Grayson Cooke, Deputy Dean and Director of Research at the SCU School of Arts and Social Sciences, acknowledged Dr Rall’s valuable fashion and textile contributions and observations as intricate and unique.

“As this book project shows, she inflects it with political weight and a sense of critique, referencing historical moments and asking questions about gender and power, that are really important in Australia and internationally,” he said.